All in a day # 1 Fremantle Western Australia

Perth to Fremantle – Boats, trains and cocktails

January 2023

One sunny Saturday in January, we were home with no plans. It was one of those perfect Perth summer days – not too hot with the promise of a breeze. So an afternoon in Fremantle was just what the doctor ordered (see what I did there). If you are not from Perth, you may not know that the sea breeze is fondly known as the Fremantle Doctor.

The train is usually my transport of choice when heading to the port city as parking can be a nightmare, and what’s not to love about riding the train along the coast? However, today we decided to do as the tourists do and jump on the Derbarl Yerrigan (Swan River) for a boat ride. I quickly checked online and discovered a Captain Cook cruise departing from Elizabeth Quay at 2:15 pm. $43 for a one-way trip – probably not something I would do every day. So without overthinking it, I booked!

We threw on some hats, grabbed the camera, and caught a bus to Elizabeth Quay. The boat was ready to board when we got there, so we headed for the top deck. The bar was open, and beer was on the menu, so we ordered a beer and sat back to enjoy the trip of just over an hour. There was a commentary of course, which is not always to my liking – but this was OK. The skipper pointed out landmarks and told us about some of the houses we passed.

We arrived in Fremantle Harbour, where we caught sight of frolicking dolphins and could see the bustling Gage Roads Brewery, now situated on the wharf in one of the old passenger terminals. We decided to go and check out the brewery first. The brewery was impressive, with views of the harbour and enough seating configurations to suit groups of all sizes. A playground at one end with a real boat and an old four-wheel drive for the kids to climb on.

Next stop was the Fremantle Markets – I must admit I last went there some time ago, and it feels a bit tired. Even though it was bustling, it didn’t have the same vibe as the old days when permanent markets like Fremantle were king (or queen). I enjoy the outdoors of a farmers market these days. We did a quick circuit, breathed in the flavoured coffee smell that always assaults the senses when you enter the market and decided to head back to the other end of town. We meandered and stopped to check out op shops and bookshops. Fremantle wins hands down when it comes to secondhand books and killer op shops.

The next stop was the Jungle Bird, where the cocktails were flowing – so when in a rum bar… We stopped for a cocktail and soaked up the atmosphere before deciding that we should think about getting on the train for home.

The train was in the station, so we boarded and sat back to enjoy the coastal view. By this stage, we were starting to feel a bit hungry, so we decided to get off the train in West Leederville and duck into Besk for some share plates and one last drink. The food was delicious and really hit the spot – we over ordered, of course, and had to abandon the basket of french fries!

We could have gotten back on the train and continued our journey as we started by returning home on the bus. But with full stomachs and all that fresh sea air, we were happy to jump into an Uber for the trip home.

We arrived home as the sun set and agreed that our adventure had met all expectations considering we had none about 30 minutes before we had set off.

What’s the skinny?

• Fremantle is around 30 minutes from Perth City.
• The train departs every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes on weekends and at other times.
• Fremantle is a port city with a rich maritime history.
• Gage Roads Brewery is worth a visit, if not for a beer, just for a gander.
• Its best to catch a train (or ferry) because parking can be tight.
• Captain Cook Cruises depart from Barrack Street Jetty in the city & arrive at B Shed in Fremantle.
• Give yourself a day to meander.
• Go and visit the Maritime Museum – there are two.