Green Head, home to the Noongar and Yamatji People, is 300 km north of Perth and one of the prettiest coastal towns one could visit this side of Geraldton. Jurien Bay is the home of sea lion tours – we visited this part of the world in the Noongar season of Kambarang when wild flowers are in full bloom.
The road trip is spectacular which ever way you choose to go. The drive up the Indian Ocean Road is stunning but sometimes I head straight up the Brand Highway. This trip, we somehow missed the split where the Tonkin becomes Brand Highway and ended up in Moora on the Bindoon-Moora Road. All roads lead to Green Head!
Wildflowers on the road side, green rolling hills and beautiful farm properties enjoying the last of their green before WA’s long hot summer passes it by. We got there in much the same time with the added bonus of coffee and cakes at the Bindoon Bakehous – delicious! Bindoon is a quirky little town – worth a gander for the great little gift shops and organic shop.
We arrived in Green Head just in time for lunch and settled into our accomodation at the Ocean Break Beach Stay (literally on the beach) right on Dynamite Bay. We decided our legs needed a stretch so we headed to the general store (for stores) to make lunch and then set off to go tramping the coastal paths.
The Three Bays Walk is a bit deceptively named as I am sure I counted in excess of 5 bays! Not one to ever complain about too much of something we continued our stroll.
Undulating hills and contrasting colours of the coastal scrub while the waves crashed, the wind gusted and birds made themselves known. A sensory experience! I kept an eagle eye out for sea eagles but two pelicans catching the wind like a couple of synchronised flyers were the only high flyers I saw that afternoon.
Small beaches accessible by steps delighted us with tiny rock pools inhabitated by crabs and colourful sea weeds. The water holes extend out past the sandy shore to become reefs of aqua blue and cooling greens, so inviting.
The coast in these parts is windy to say the least, especially mid afternoon but we found small nooks and crannies and valleys of dunes to shelter from the wild winds.
Kids swim safely in Dynamite Bay, apparently one of the world’s top 20 beaches. Lovely sheltered bay, but as far as I am concerned any beach at any time is pretty amazing so I’m not sure where they get their stats from?
Wildflowers nestle in the dunes and spring from behind rocks to surprise us with their colours – reds, yellows and pinks.
Later, we wipe the sand from our shoes and sit on the balcony with beers overlooking the top 20 beach in the world – does life get much better than this? The sun slowly covered our balcony with a golden hue and peeked through the cracks in the railings to form long shadows. True holiday vibes where no one, least of all, me is in a hurry.
The aroma of Bali chicken curry wafts up from the cafe downstairs – tonight’s special . Freerange dhufish is also on the menu. What does that mean? Aren’t all dhufish freerange until they’re not? We laugh about the use of freerange as an adjective.
Western Australia is blessed with a certain type of light. Late afternoon is the best time for photos in my opinion. I’m not even a Western Australian yet I feel childhood nostalgia for that light. Is that even possible?
Dinner was delicious – the Bali chicken curry really lived up to its aroma and Anthony’s freerange dhufish was freeranging no more as he sliced it up. We had an early start the next day to go swimming with sea lions so it was off to bed with sandy toes and a sea breeze passing through the windows.
Up early to seek the elusive sea eagle from the balcony – photos on the walls of our accomodation tease me and signs everywhere saying “watch out for sea eagles” I was, believe me! Instead I got a shot of the moon hanging in the early morning sky. The sea looked calmer and the wind had slowed to a puff. Great news for the morning’s activities.
We breakfasted and packed ready for our next adventure – snorkelling with sea lions! We drove the short distance to Jurien Bay and grabbed coffee from the lovely cafe on the beach before making our way to the marina for a 9:45 launch.
On board the vessel we were quickly zipped up into full length wetsuits and on our way to meet some new slippery friends! The boat sped over the clearest blue ocean to reach our final destination – a small island covered in a swath of lazy sea lions who barely raised a flipper let alone their whiskered heads.
There are rules about not approaching the sea lions or stepping foot on the islands and the boat must stay within 30 metres of the shore. So we slipped into the sparkling ocean (which was a tad cold) with snorkels, masks and flippers. Not a fan of flippers, I realised after I had struggled to move in no way that resembled a mermaid or a sea lion!
We didn’t have to wait for long – a curious female returning from breakfast came in to swim around us and sit on the ocean floor. So graceful in the water these beautiful mammals are just like dogs of the sea. According to our well-informed on board marine scientist, Chelsea, the sea lions are pregnant pretty much all the time! They can get pregnant 7 days after giving birth!
Sea Lion facts
- Australian Sea Lions are endangered and there are only 3400 in the wild in WA
- Australian Sea Lions are also found in South Australia
- Sea Lions are Australia’s only native seal
- they have a gestation period of 18 months and can fall pregnant 7 days after giving birth
- Sea Lions can weight up to 250kg
- They are not fussy eaters and will forage for anything including fish, squid, and even the occasional sea gull!
- Female sea lions are ‘homebodies’ and like to stay in their patch while the males range far and wide and live in ‘bachelor pads’ when the breeding season is over.
45 minutes was all we could spend in the water and during that time another female came and checked us out. We could see the others shifting around on the beach and occasionally sitting in the shallows to cool off. Then it was back on board for hot showers and hot chocolate. Best hot chocolate I have ever tasted! The trip back was quick and before we knew it we were back on land
The trip home we decided to take the Indian Ocean Road as it seemed pretty quiet. A great decision.
What’s the skinny
- Green Head is around 300 km north of Perth – an easy 3.5 hours drive and you can get there by following the Indian Ocean Road, The Brand Highway or the Moora-Bindoon Road.
- CentreBreak Beach Stay is a great spot to stay if you want a few creature comforts – they cater to couples, families and singles. The cafe is the town’s only eatery and they do lovely homecooked meals.
- Green Head Caravan Park is close to the beach and caters to tent camping, vans and caravans.
- Jurien Bay Oceanic will whisk you away to swim with sea lions – books essential
- Three Bays Beach Walk is marked by signs and will take you a couple of hours to explore the bays.
All in a Day Adventures 