Failing to retrieve the past; or retrieving the failed past

A tale of pawn shops, antique cameras and regret

Pawn shop blues

I had an antique German camera circa 1956. My dad gave it to me when I was 13; it was beautiful. It had a brown leather case scuffed at the corners, and a short handstrap; the aluminium body shell was cool to the touch, it was in perfect nick. I treasured that camera because it had been Dad’s and then it was mine.

Over the years I have amassed a small arsenal of cameras; always within reach, always ready for a quick draw. Each one poised to capture fleeting moments, little tableau vivants frozen in time, saved for later.

I hoard these fragments like a clever corvid, stashing them away in digital caches, waiting to be rediscovered. But sometimes, the sheer volume of stored memories overwhelms me. So many moments scattered across virtual vaults, buried in folders, clouds, drives.

There was simplicity in the old ways; sliding prints into a drawer, arranging them in photo albums behind plastic that held your memories behind static and photo mounts, or clicking through dusty slides in a carousel at family gatherings, onto a white bedsheet.

Honestly? Screw the cloud.

Tell those friends with cameras for eyes
That their hands don’t make me hang
They only make me feel like breathing
In an unguarded moment.

Michelle Parker / Stephen Kilbey

Photography was once all about fitting a black and white Kodak film into the back of a camera and slotting it into place, carefully lining up the film onto the sprockets and slowly closing the back with a satisfying click. I loved winding the film on to the first frame; it filled me with delicious anticipation every time. What could I capture on this fine roll of cellulose acetate?

My first film installed in my German camera when I was 13, took an age to reach the final frame. Only 12 exposures, but each one was carefully considered. Composition, light, F stops just right. Press my finger down on the shutter button, click! Wind on.

My first reel was shot on a holiday camp for children who did remote correspondence schooling. A bunch of teens from farflung outposts, lighthouses, and remote locations throughout Tasmania. It was a strange and isolating experience for me which was odd because for the first time in years I was with children my age. The photos are of the girls who I made friends with, posing awkwardly on the beach.

I loved photography. I took the elective twice in high school and later when I was in my final year at Nightcliff High in Darwin I completed a week’s work experience at the male dominated bastion that was the NT News. It was a newspaper worthy only of lining a birdcage, but I was given free rein with all their camera equipment and the dark room. They sent me out on ‘assignment’ and I spent the week roaming the streets of Darwin photographing visiting sailors and points of interest. One of the best weeks of my life. Although looking back I think they just wanted me out of their hair. Pesky work experience kid, and a GIRL at that.

Pesky Work experience kid – yes, that is a bullet around my neck!

I was lucky growing up because I also had the means to process my own film. For a time, my arty creative family had a dark room that doubled as a laundry ; knock before you enter. The smell of developing fluid, the sticky photographic paper immersed in solution as you push it back and forth to get maximum coverage. Pegs to pin the drying photos. The red light.

I carried that German camera everywhere. When I fled Darwin to check out the ‘big ol’ city’ of Perth I was 20 years old. All I had was my pale green Toyota Corolla, some jewellery that belonged to my dead mother, a couple of suit cases of clothes, my dog ‘Odie’, and my camera with the brown leather case.

I had no feelings for the jewellery and pawned it within a week of arriving in Perth. I never retrieved it, I should have. There’s a whole lot of unresolved trauma behind this that I won’t go into here and now.

I had already secured a fulltime job with a West Perth accountant but had four long weeks before the job started. I was living on the bones of my bum, in a share house with three of the strangest men I’d ever met. The home owner, an alcoholic bank manager who tried to get me into bed every weekend, a wheatbelt butcher named Brad, as country as they come, and a batshit crazy skydiver who jumped out of planes every weekend, as warped as they come. We all had dogs. It was ridiculous. I got out of there not long after I started my fulltime job.

Anyway, I was skint and the only things I had of any value were my car which I needed to get to work, eventually, and my brown case camera. I was not one to ask my family for money; I was fiercely independent. So I took that heirloom to a pawn shop with the intention of lending against it and retrieving it later. I think anyone who has ever pawned anything has the same intention. It was the first of many interactions I would have with the shady world of pawn shops over my lifetime.

Before Cash Converters went chainstore slick, pawn shops of the ’80s were shady backstreet dens, usually run by middle-aged men with foggy glasses and halitosis. Cash Converters started in Perth in 1984 as just one grimy shop, not the franchise juggernaut it later became. By 1990, its expansion across Australia somehow turned the once shameful act of pawning Gran’s wedding ring into something you could do between grocery runs. Respectable seeming ads helped remove the shame of being broke, until ID checks were insisted on, revealing most of the goods were stolen. Who’d have guessed?

I think I got a miniscule $50 for it. $50 was enough to keep me going until I received my first ever dole cheque. Yes, in those days it was a dole cheque, you cashed them at the bank. I was on the dole for four weeks and in that time I did what every other person on the dole was doing in Perth and hung out at Scarborough Beach. Sun, sand and salt were my regular companions.

But, I never did go back to pick up my camera, not even after I started work. I was playing catch up with rent, new work clothes and food, and with the interest mounting on my pawned items, suddenly it was too late. The brown case camera from Germany, that belonged to my Dad was gone. The jewellery that belonged to my mum was gone. I have regretted losing that camera ever since.

So over the years I’ve kept an eye on camera sales websites, Facebook pages and Marketplace. They come up but they have all looked worst for wear. One Sunday I was browsing Marketplace and I saw one for sale in a suburb close to mine. It had been sitting in the owners’ storage for decades. The lense unscratched, if a bit dirty. But Zeiss lenses are the best and if they have not been scratched they will come up fine with a clean.

I jumped in my car and drove like a mad person through an electrical storm, torrential rain and hail. The camera was perfect and appeared to be in excellent condition; the model was not the same as my old one. It’s a Zeiss Ikon Contessa with a quality Tessar lens. So I handed over my cash and spirited it home for cleaning and love. I know it doesnt go anywhere near replacing the one I pawned but it looks and feels the same; a satisfying weight, the aluminium cool to the touch and the brown leather case is scuffed in all the right places.

*EDIT

Here are the first photos from my new camera. I am beyond pleased!

Lighthouse Kid – Lisa Ikin

Living on the lighthouses was sort of like that TV show, ‘Round the Twist’ in more ways than you think!

Forty South Tasmania

When I finished my 3-day Three Capes Track hiking experience earlier this year I realised after pitching to many publications that I probably needed to tell this story in the land it was set. So the lovely people at Forty South Magazine, a magazine I have long admired and read, took me up on my offer of tourism travel blog with a side of memoir. Enjoy 🙂

I have scanned the magazine as best I could.

All In A Day #15 – Cruising the Coral Coast WA

A cruisy roadtrip up the Coral Coast to Green Head WA is the perfect minbreak. When combined with a sea lion experience its definitely an adventure worth writing about!

Green Head, home to the Noongar and Yamatji People, is 300 km north of Perth and one of the prettiest coastal towns one could visit this side of Geraldton. Jurien Bay is the home of sea lion tours – we visited this part of the world in the Noongar season of Kambarang when wild flowers are in full bloom.

The road trip is spectacular which ever way you choose to go. The drive up the Indian Ocean Road is stunning but sometimes I head straight up the Brand Highway. This trip, we somehow missed the split where the Tonkin becomes Brand Highway and ended up in Moora on the Bindoon-Moora Road. All roads lead to Green Head!

Wildflowers on the road side, green rolling hills and beautiful farm properties enjoying the last of their green before WA’s long hot summer passes it by. We got there in much the same time with the added bonus of coffee and cakes at the Bindoon Bakehous – delicious! Bindoon is a quirky little town – worth a gander for the great little gift shops and organic shop.

We arrived in Green Head just in time for lunch and settled into our accomodation at the Ocean Break Beach Stay (literally on the beach) right on Dynamite Bay. We decided our legs needed a stretch so we headed to the general store (for stores) to make lunch and then set off to go tramping the coastal paths.

The Three Bays Walk is a bit deceptively named as I am sure I counted in excess of 5 bays! Not one to ever complain about too much of something we continued our stroll.

Undulating hills and contrasting colours of the coastal scrub while the waves crashed, the wind gusted and birds made themselves known. A sensory experience! I kept an eagle eye out for sea eagles but two pelicans catching the wind like a couple of synchronised flyers were the only high flyers I saw that afternoon.

Small beaches accessible by steps delighted us with tiny rock pools inhabitated by crabs and colourful sea weeds. The water holes extend out past the sandy shore to become reefs of aqua blue and cooling greens, so inviting.

The coast in these parts is windy to say the least, especially mid afternoon but we found small nooks and crannies and valleys of dunes to shelter from the wild winds.

Kids swim safely in Dynamite Bay, apparently one of the world’s top 20 beaches. Lovely sheltered bay, but as far as I am concerned any beach at any time is pretty amazing so I’m not sure where they get their stats from?

Wildflowers nestle in the dunes and spring from behind rocks to surprise us with their colours – reds, yellows and pinks.

Later, we wipe the sand from our shoes and sit on the balcony with beers overlooking the top 20 beach in the world – does life get much better than this? The sun slowly covered our balcony with a golden hue and peeked through the cracks in the railings to form long shadows. True holiday vibes where no one, least of all, me is in a hurry.

The aroma of Bali chicken curry wafts up from the cafe downstairs – tonight’s special . Freerange dhufish is also on the menu. What does that mean? Aren’t all dhufish freerange until they’re not? We laugh about the use of freerange as an adjective.

Western Australia is blessed with a certain type of light. Late afternoon is the best time for photos in my opinion. I’m not even a Western Australian yet I feel childhood nostalgia for that light. Is that even possible?

Dinner was delicious – the Bali chicken curry really lived up to its aroma and Anthony’s freerange dhufish was freeranging no more as he sliced it up. We had an early start the next day to go swimming with sea lions so it was off to bed with sandy toes and a sea breeze passing through the windows.

Up early to seek the elusive sea eagle from the balcony – photos on the walls of our accomodation tease me and signs everywhere saying “watch out for sea eagles” I was, believe me! Instead I got a shot of the moon hanging in the early morning sky. The sea looked calmer and the wind had slowed to a puff. Great news for the morning’s activities.

We breakfasted and packed ready for our next adventure – snorkelling with sea lions! We drove the short distance to Jurien Bay and grabbed coffee from the lovely cafe on the beach before making our way to the marina for a 9:45 launch.

On board the vessel we were quickly zipped up into full length wetsuits and on our way to meet some new slippery friends! The boat sped over the clearest blue ocean to reach our final destination – a small island covered in a swath of lazy sea lions who barely raised a flipper let alone their whiskered heads.

There are rules about not approaching the sea lions or stepping foot on the islands and the boat must stay within 30 metres of the shore. So we slipped into the sparkling ocean (which was a tad cold) with snorkels, masks and flippers. Not a fan of flippers, I realised after I had struggled to move in no way that resembled a mermaid or a sea lion!

We didn’t have to wait for long – a curious female returning from breakfast came in to swim around us and sit on the ocean floor. So graceful in the water these beautiful mammals are just like dogs of the sea. According to our well-informed on board marine scientist, Chelsea, the sea lions are pregnant pretty much all the time! They can get pregnant 7 days after giving birth!

Sea Lion facts

  • Australian Sea Lions are endangered and there are only 3400 in the wild in WA
  • Australian Sea Lions are also found in South Australia
  • Sea Lions are Australia’s only native seal
  • they have a gestation period of 18 months and can fall pregnant 7 days after giving birth
  • Sea Lions can weight up to 250kg
  • They are not fussy eaters and will forage for anything including fish, squid, and even the occasional sea gull!
  • Female sea lions are ‘homebodies’ and like to stay in their patch while the males range far and wide and live in ‘bachelor pads’ when the breeding season is over.

45 minutes was all we could spend in the water and during that time another female came and checked us out. We could see the others shifting around on the beach and occasionally sitting in the shallows to cool off. Then it was back on board for hot showers and hot chocolate. Best hot chocolate I have ever tasted! The trip back was quick and before we knew it we were back on land

The trip home we decided to take the Indian Ocean Road as it seemed pretty quiet. A great decision.

What’s the skinny

  • Green Head is around 300 km north of Perth – an easy 3.5 hours drive and you can get there by following the Indian Ocean Road, The Brand Highway or the Moora-Bindoon Road.
  • CentreBreak Beach Stay is a great spot to stay if you want a few creature comforts – they cater to couples, families and singles. The cafe is the town’s only eatery and they do lovely homecooked meals.
  • Green Head Caravan Park is close to the beach and caters to tent camping, vans and caravans.
  • Jurien Bay Oceanic will whisk you away to swim with sea lions – books essential
  • Three Bays Beach Walk is marked by signs and will take you a couple of hours to explore the bays.

All In A Day #14 – Sealion the deal

He’s behind you! My paddle buddies shouted as I frantically retrieved my phone from a dry bag on top of my paddleboard!

It was that time again. The day standup paddlers decide it’s not too cold, not to windy and that the sea is not too swelly. Beginning of spring, tail end of the Noongar season Djilba. The sun had started to get a bit of a bite and the easterly was showing its face.

Time to paddle on the ocean after paddling in the sheltered river for the past few months. Or alternatively, some may choose to remain in the shelter of their homes until the weather is stinking hot before they emerge with their boards and paddles. You know who you are! Each to their own.

Me, I like to paddle all year round and I can usually be found puttering around up river with the pelicans and darters. I sometimes paddle alone and sometimes with a group. So this Sunday the weather was all that and the conditions perfect for our first ocean adventure.

We selected Coogee Beach where the ocean is usually flat and most importantly, it has a banging cafe for coffee afterwards. The easterly was puffing and the ocean dead flat – perfect. We paddled up to the Omeo wreck and did a circuit and then headed back towards Coogee Surf Lifesaving. The wind had picked up a bit but as long as we stuck to the shore all was good.

It was around now that we noticed what I originally thought was a swimmer and someone else suspected the “S” word motoring along not far from the shore in the opposite direction to us. It was indeed an “S” word but not the scary one. It was a sealion! A big fat sealion cruising the bay popping up every now and then for a breath before diving deep.

Great excitement ensued and I decided this was a photo opp so I paddled like mad towards the last place I had sighted the big fella. Nothing. Then “He’s behind you!” screeched one of the girls. I scrabbled for my phone (dry bags never open quickly in an emergency) and spun around to see him or her motoring towards me – up and down went his whiskered head and flippers.

I clicked away (yeah I know iPhones don’t make clicks) and got some shots before I realised he wasn’t going to slow down or stop before he got to my board. Thud! his shoulder and back slid under my board shifting me sideways. I think I screamed and then he was gone – diving so deep.

I decided he couldn’t have seen me, he was having such a whale of a time he got carried away and when his body made contact he was just as startled as I, causing him to dive to safety. But I got the shots (and that’s the main thing right?) We were all so excited. He emerged further on and we sat and watched him frolic in the shallows before turning and leading our paddle party back to the beach.

Video evidence!

It was also time to have a swim. The water was cold but so refreshing and the feeling you get after a swim in cold water, especially the ocean – is the best. So, here’s to more days on the ocean, more encounters with nature and more paddling with friends!

What’s the skinny?

  • Coogee Beach is about 30 minutes drive from Perth city
  • The Omeo Wreck is popular with snorkellers and divers
  • The Australian sealion is a playful and curious ‘dog of the sea’ – they live on nearby Carnac Island
  • The Coogee Beach Cafe do a damn good coffee and muffin (just sayin)
  • Standup Paddleboarding is popular in Perth and surrounds – see my previous blog about water activities

All in a Day # 13 – The Blue Mountains once in a blue moon

A chance visit to Sydney and a trip to the Blue Mountains – my latest All in A Day adventure

When I found myself with three nights to spare on a recent trip to Sydney I decided to head for the mountains and spend some quality time with family in the tiny town of Blackheath – a community with its head in the clouds and its feet firmly anchored in some of the most amazing rocks I have ever come across!

So I boarded a train in Sydney town – Central Station, and settled in for some scenery and a rolling train trip. I had been out partying at a client’s award presentation at the swanky Star Casino the night before (the reason for my trip) so to sit down for a couple of hours was the perfect solution.

When I arrived in Blackheath just over two hours later my neck was sore from looking this way and that. The only time I had ever been into the Blue Mountains was when I was ten years old. My grandfather drove my sister and I to Katoomba where we got out of the car and stood to gawk at the Three Sisters. Then, back in the car for the trek back to Sydney.

My grandfather liked to show us grandkids all the tourist attractions. Bondi in the summer (where he argued with a parking attendant about the exorbitant parking fees – in 1974) the Harbour Bridge (where I remember dropping coins into a bucket for the 1974 Cyclone Tracy victims) the Opera House – looming above and a visit to Luna Park (where I wore a polkadot dress with a Peterpan collar that made me look ill in the hall of mirrors), Warragamba Dam, where we did the entire tour of the inside of the dam wall, and finally Bullens African Lion Safari Park where we sweltered in his small car with all the windows wound up (to prevent lions entering) and no airconditioning. It was like he had a list and he ticked them off one by one.

I remember getting into huge trouble when we got home from the Blue Mountains trip because I had thrown a chunk of chewing gum from the back window and it had stuck on the duco! Hard as a rock. I had to help remove it.

Deidre was at the Blackheath Station to greet me. A long time between visits for both of us, I was looking forward to catching up. We arrived at her small blue home nestled on a hillside surrounded by trees and soft green grass. I breathed in deeply and it felt (or smelt) so familiar even though I had never been there before. Deidre lives in paradise and I couldn’t believe it took me so long to get there. Tasmania is never far from my memories when I find myself in the bush and this reminded me of Tassie.

We lunched and chatted until tiredness overcame me so I snuck off for an afternoon nap in the attic room. A soft single bed with loads of warm doonas and pillows – I drifted off to the sounds of parrots and sulphur crested cockatoos in the back ground, cool mountain air arrived like an unannounced guest through the open window. I could feel it was going to be cold at night.

I woke up and made my way downstairs after putting on some layers and closing the bedroom window, cold indeed. We made plans to go and watch the blue moon rise over Govett’s Leap. It had been magnificent the night before when I caught it hanging over the city.

Deidre filled thermos cups with delicious pumpkin soup. We took spoons and warm clothing and drove to our pitch dark destination. All the makings of a grand adventure.

We sat in the car and sipped on our soup before getting out out to view the rising moon. I had no idea what scenery lay before me as we clutched the rail and looked out into the dark until I visited two days later during the day light hours. Wow! The moon did not disappoint and we stayed to watch it disappear behind a cloud as a young couple howled from the carpark not far from where we stood. Our bones were chilled so we got back into the car to escape the icy air that enveloped us.

A brilliant night’s sleep – warm and comfy and in the bush – my three favourite states of being. The next morning I set off on a solo adventure as Deidre had some work to do. I decided to follow the railway line – certain that the views would be magnificent somewhere. I wasn’t wrong. After 5 km I came across a group of 20 somethings organising their gear to head to the cliffs for some rock climbing.

I chatted to them and they noted my camera. “The views from where we are going are pretty amazing” one of them said, “follow us down if you like.” So I waited while they loaded their bags with carabinas, ropes, snacks and helmets and fell in behind them – piggybacking onto their adventure – as they skipped down the trail with bags the weight of a human body on their backs.

They reached the edge and I took some pics without getting too close to the long drop. They asked it I would take their photo and I said “yes, as long as I don’t have to hang over the edge.” Photos snapped I bid them farewell and made my way back up the slope. Very steep. Once I reached the top I decided that I had satisfied my need for an amazing view and I had a 5km return walk, so I patted my camera and turned back the way I came.

Blackheath is a sweet little town with the usual supermarkets, bakeries and butcher shops you find in those small places. A visit to the local supermarket where the shelves were so close you have to shimmy past others coming from the opposite direction, a great coffee from Altitude Cafe and some vegetable pasties from the local bakery, I was ready to return to Deidre’s for an afternoon of gin and cakes with some of her friends.

A couple of gins in and the sore calves from the mornings trek started to relax. The lovely company of some friendly locals combined with the warmth of the heater and warming drinks made for a super relaxing afternoon. Once everyone left we helped ourselves to another piece of cake and a cup of tea, chatted some more before we headed to bed.

Another good sleep and I was ready for another hike. This time I decided to head back down to Govett’s Leap to see what I could not see the evening I arrived (breathtaking) and then onto the Grand Canyon Hike- a 7 km loop that took me down into the depths of middle earth and back out again.

Extreme steps on the way in meant extreme steps on the way out. I loved every moment of the trail – ferns, trickling water, waterfalls, thick bush, creatures (a snake, a bearded lizard and some sort of a ground dwelling brush bird) It was like paradise. I was not so enamoured of the steep steps on the way out but at least I was prepared for them.

It always amuses me how people forget that what goes down must go up (in this case). I had a conversation with a couple going the opposite way to me and who had just reached the bottom – they told me that there would be a “bit” of steepness on my climb out, but it shouldn’t be too bad. I, on the other hand warned them of the climb they faced at the other end. I believe both ways were equally steep.

By the time I reached the top those calves were singing! I made my way back to the carpark with a full camera (literally ran out of space) and a full heart. And made my way home for a rest and something to eat.

That afternoon we got in the car and set off on another adventure into Katoomba – around 15 minutes drive away to check out the Three Sisters as the sunset. Groups of tourists and families gathered and took photos of one another and themselves- laughing and having fun in the cool soft light.

We then visited the beautiful Carrington Hotel – a grand dame of a hotel with chairs that enveloped us in their lush cushions. I had a Lemoncello cocktail before we headed out to dinner at the local Thai restaurant. I was ravenous after all my extreme exercise. The food was so good.

My final night and more chats before falling into bed – my last night in the mountains. I slept well and woke early before jamming my reluctant clothing back into my (too small) bag. Final coffee and a final chance to chat. Before boarding the train all the way to the airport and on to Perth. I had only been away from home for five nights in total but it felt like so much more.

What’s the skinny?

  • Blackheath is at the highest point of the Blue Mountains – altitude 1065 m (no wonder I felt breathless!)
  • The town is 120 km west of Sydney and you can train there in a couple of hours
  • Katoomba (home of the Three Sisters) is 10 minutes down the road
  • The Carrington is a grand old dame in Katoomba – worth a visit
  • Govetts Leap will take you breath away
  • If you can deal with steep climbs and steps The Grand Canyon hike is amazing
  • Blackheath Bakery Patisserie makes the best vegetable pasties!
  • Rock climbing is very popular in this part of the world.
  • A Blue Moon is not really blue.
  • Visit the Three Sisters at sunset and remember to practice your echo.
  • Bullens African Lion Safari was a thing! Bullen was a circus owner and he made wildlife parks in NSW and Queensland. The NSW park was near Warragamba Dam
  • If you would like to experience Blackheath and you are looking for a lovely room in an AirBnb Deidre is you hostess with the mostest.

All in a Day #12 – toenail moon and rocky outcrops

Under the Milky Way we camped. On the site of an old town in the middle of the Western Australian wheatbelt.

The Western Australian Wheatbelt is so unassuming from the outset but so rich when you dig deeper (or in this case: climb higher).

A camping trip to Kwolyin Camp site in the middle of wheat and canola country was the perfect weekend getaway for three adventurous women. We arrived mid afternoon on Friday to set up camp on the old Kwolyin Town site around 40 km from Bruce Rock and 7 km from the nearest shop in Shackleton.

The camp site was spacious and the sites are not marked so it’s first in best pitched. We chose a spot not too far from the toilet block (flushing loos it might be said!) but far enough away so as not to be disturbed by comings and goings.

I had already been distracted on my way in, by a sign saying ‘Kokerbin Rock’ not far from the campsite turn off and had made a detour to check it out. So when I arrived I was full of stories. ‘Monlith this, monolith that!’ Incredible, in case you were wondering. More about that later.

We pitched our tents and helped Lainey hoist up her fancy camp trailer with everything (and the kitchen sink) included. Chairs were placed strategically around the fire pit and then we prepared for dinner as the sun set behind the trees. Fire lit and bubbles in hand – all was good with the world.

The night sky was incredible. The toenail moon the milky way pulled us into the void – this trip was going to be the trip I finally sorted out my camera settings and got some astro shots. But not tonight – we ate, chatted and enjoyed the serenity before tucking ourselves into sleeping bags. There was a definite chill in the air!

The next morning I emerged from my tent to find our camp site enveloped in mist – the sun struggling to push though. The nearby sheep (that had impossibly long legs) were obviously distressed about something (maybe the mist) because we could hear loud baaing across the camp ground.

We sparked up the fire and brewed some coffee and tea. A cook up breakfast was on the cards – eggs, mushrooms and tomatoes with toast. Incredible! We had already discussed our plans for exploring the Granite Way the night before and decided to head straight out to the furthest rock, Mount Stirling, first up.

We hit the gravel road where rock after rock sprung from the flat wheat country. Most rocks were on private properties so access was limited. Mount Stirling was incredibly striking – rising from the newly planted crops – deep green and lush. A drive around the side of the rock took us to the shell of an old church and some strange person-made rock structures that had the hallmarks or sacrifice? My wild imagination thought so anyway. They were probably someones attempt at a picnic table – nothing sinister.

The grass was long and hard to walk through – mosquitoes were everywhere (I regretted my choice of wearing shorts) but we managed to get fairly close to the base. There were some Picnic at Hanging Rock vibes – Mirandaaaah!

Because most of the rock was on private property there was no access to the back end of it. We discovered a sign at the entrance where you could climb the rock. The ascent looked quite steep.

Next we did a drive by some of the other rocks on the trail before heading back to Kokerbin Rock (the one I had explored the day before) because I knew it had walking trails and summiting the rock was relatively easy. The sun was out and warming us up by this stage. We walked around the edge of Kokerbin Rock and climbed part of the way up. The views were spectacular – yellow, green and brown.

Within the camp site is Coarin Rock – walking distance from our tents. We missed this one even though it was so close.

We stopped and chatted to a Kellerberin local who runs the fruit and veg shop – out for an explore on her day off. Back at camp a group of ‘detectorists’ had gathered and they scoured the land for old pennies. They wore gaters, head phones and boots, carried small collapsible shovels while their metal detectors let out a constant high pitched beep when they discovered ring pulls, tin cans and the occasional piece of history. I had an overwhelming urge to shout ‘what r u got?’ – a line from the Tv series “The Detectorists” but I think I was the only one who had seen it.

Instead we asked them questions about what they expected to find and it was all very interesting! I had an urge to buy a metal detector and join in the search for treasure.

The detectorists retired for the afternoon and the whole campsite seemed to have a siesta. Flies buzzed and the breeze washed softly over our camp. I think we all fell asleep.

Time for afternoon drinks and nibbles followed by dinner prep. Lainey delivered the goods and wrapped every conceivable vegetable known to womankind in foil. We set up the fire to produce coals and then placed everything strategically into the coals. Everything was perfectly cooked and incredibly delicious!

There is an air of Saturday night celebration in the air as the camp site became more populated. Groups of people chatted around fires while listening to music and dancing under the Milkyway.

I had written down some instructions on how to take astro photos before leaving Perth so I was ready for nightfall and the promise of clear skies. After our veggie feast I set up my camera and played around for a while. At last something ressembling Astro photography emerged on my playback screen. I had photographed the universe! Not bad for a first effort.

We were tucked up in bed around 9:30 pm. Then, up the next morning to pack up camp and head back to Perth. What a grand adventure!

What’s the skinny?

  • Kwolyin Camp Site is around 200 km out of Perth
  • The camp site has basic facilities and fresh water is available
  • The Granite Way is a 60km self-drive trail to see giagantic granite rocks throughout the wheatbelt shires of Bruce Rock, Quairading and Kellerberrin.
  • Camp fires are permitted in the cooler months – always check first. Bring your own wood.
  • Astro Photography is a bit of a buzz and as long as you have a camera or even a phone anyone can have success.
  • The closest shop for staples is 7 km away in Shackleton
  • Picnic at Hanging Rock is an eerie story made into an equally eerie Peter Weir film in the 70s
  • The Detectorists is a quirky look at the sub culture of metal detecting – worth a watch.

All in A Day #11 – Dwelling on Dwellingup – a ‘cusp of Spring’ Break

All in A Day takes a break from camping to enjoy the luxury of a winter cottage.

Crisp mornings with a dash of sunlight , steam rising from rooftops. Quick – light the fire! Walks through the forest across the road and relaxing on the verandah. Pretty nice way to spend a weekend!

A box fire warms the front room, providing a glow to the cheeks and the cockles of our hearts. What actually is a cockle? Note to self – find out the origins of cockle.

The bush beckons from the front verandah. Glimpses of ravens hopping across the road, glossy wings half extended. Always up to something – no good? Smaller offerings – Flaming Robins, Blue Wrens and New Holland Honeyeaters flit about proving hard to capture (in my lens).

The drive to Dwellingup is delicious – green pastures, random cows and copses of bush. Some flooding from all the recent rain. I stopped in Pinjarra for groceries and lunch. Whisky to make hot toddies as I have lost my voice – three days and counting.

I always feel like I have forgotten something when I am not camping. Camping is simple – grab that box, that crate, that bundle. Airbnb is just throw more and more stuff into the car and slam the door. More than I need and not everything that I need. Unfortunately one of things I grab is a bundle of keys – story about that later.

About my voice, or lack therof. I have been whispering like a creeper for a couple of days. No other symptoms, just no voice. So I sit and listen mostly. Hot toddies with whisky, honey and lemon do nothing but warm those cockles. Oh well, not all bad.

Then, lazy afternoon sun, birds a cacophony (there is no better word) of sound. A stroll to the railway station where historic carriages and diesel engines languish. The Hotham Valley Steam Train must be out steaming up the tracks. High vis enthusiasts tend to the aging trucks and engines. Visions of Sodor.

Backyard hounds strain on chains, their voices harsh with barking. Poor creatures lack stimulation. Pampered city pooches with little room to move are treated like kings and queens compared to these country dogs.

Meals appear at intervals. First breakfast, second breakfast, brunch, snacks, dinner – punctuated with drinks (and cheese).

Then, woken (or shaken awake) at 5:30 am by an earthquake – 5.2 on the scale. My bed felt like someone was trying to get me out of bed. I leapt up to check that everyone had felt the same thing. Some thought vertigo.

Last morning – ice on the car windows. Memories of childhood when ice was a daily occurence, kickstarting the Peugot 404 and casting a bucket of warm water on the windscreen only to have if freeze again as we trundled down the drive heads out of windows like dogs catching the breeze.

A drive down to Lane Poole Reserve to catch the flowing river and go for a final walk through the forest. The river flowing and frothing like a milkshake and the steam still rising from the ground as the sun thaws the ice.

Then, home to unpack and relax. Another superb weekend.

What’s the skinny?

  • Dwellingup is around 1 hour and 15 minutes from Perth
  • We stayed in an AirBnb on the edge of the forest
  • Pinjarra is about 20 minutes away for any major shopping and Dwellingup has a well-stocked IGA, some lovely cafes and a restaurant or two.
  • Lane Poole Reserve is a National Park 20 minutes out of Dwellingup and you can camp there – Bookings essential for most sites.
  • Water sports including kayaking and paddle boarding are popular in this region
  • Mountain Bike trails are everywhere – in the parks and around the town
  • The Dwellingup Hotel (Dwelly Pub) is perfect for a pub meal!
  • Cockles of your heart –dates back to the mid-1600s, a time when scientific texts were often written in Latin. The Latin term cochleae cordis means ventricles of the heart, and most probably, the word cochleae was corrupted as cockles.

All in a Day #10 I teach therefore I am (a teacher)

July 2023

“My tummy hurts, I have a sore foot, leg, arm, eye, and hurt feelings.” Despite my aptitude for curing all of these ailments (sometimes with nothing more than a piece of wet paper towel) , I am not a nurse but a primary school teacher.

I teach small children. Not all the time, but a day or so a week. I was once a full-time teacher until I went part-time and realised there could be a life of less stress. Now I mostly write, sometimes I mark standardised writing tests, and will be supervising student teachers from next month.

While that sounds like a lot of different hats, it is no where near as crazy as a fulltime teaching load! I don’t think I realised how all-encompassing fulltime teaching was until I stopped.

On Thursdays, I don my teacher’s garb, gird my loins and head out into the world with a packed lunch and a water bottle. I spend the day teaching Year 5s in the morning and little Year 2s in the afternoon.

By lunchtime, I look forward to the end of the day and ask myself how I ever managed to teach full-time for 14 years. I read news reports of teachers leaving the profession because they are burnt out and have had enough of the added burdens placed on them by schools, the government and the general population, and I understand it’s a tough gig.

I maintain my teaching connection for the money and to keep up my teaching quals. Lets face it, it’s a good thing to have in times of economic uncertainty and I don’t hate it, but I don’t love it either. Anymore.

I make the most of my time at the lovely northern suburbs school where I work. The children are from essentially high socio-economic families. They have breakfast before they leave for school, they all have healthy lunches and are generally well-behaved and polite.

Some schools where I do relief do not have children like that. Sometimes I head out to the south-eastern suburbs where children don’t have breakfast and sometimes don’t have lunch. They are not always dressed warmly in winter, and they are not always polite. In fact, they can be downright rude and disrespectful.

But kids are kids – sometimes they bowl you over with their joi de vivre, and other times they slap you right in the face (not literally, hopefully) no matter where they come from or their circumstances. Mostly they want to learn and do the right thing.

I had to teach a sport session the other week, and my allocated sport was tunnel ball. Everyone has played tunnel ball, right? Apparently not. The kids had no idea what was going on. I had no whistle, so my not-very-loud voice was put into action. “Line up! Spread out, step your right foot out. The other right! Watch the ball, the ball! It’s under your legs…” It was a disaster. I don’t know who was more relieved when it came time to return to class, me or the kids!

Tunnel ball aside, I enjoy attending school for other reasons. For one, staff and other teachers provide me with the adult contact I sometimes lack as a WFH writer. Two, schools have the best staff morning teas! And finally I get to have fun with kids – what’s not to love about that?

My team teacher inspires me to be organised. In fact she is the most organised teacher I have ever met! I sit at her desk, and within half an hour I have reduced it to a mess of papers, have lost my pen, spilled pencil shavings and scattered her neatly stacked papers everywhere. If only I could emulate her organisational skills in my own piles of paper and pads at home on my writer’s desk!

So, I look at my occasional foray into schools as human development and a steady income stream to supplement my erratic freelance income.

I suppose I will always be a teacher to some degree. Just don’t make me use my teacher voice!

Welcome to All In A Day

Early in 2023 I decided to focus my writing more towards travel and adventure. Travel writing is my passion – it doesn’t even feel like a job!

I also pledged to write an All In A Day piece every couple of weeks – Short adventures and musings that may or may not involve travel. I have loved this challenge and will continue for the forseeable future. Some of these experiences have become paid gigs that have been, or are about to be published in print or online.

While web content and copywriting (sometimes) pays the bills, and I enjoy the lifestyle freelance copywriting has allowed me to have, it doesn’t bring me the same joy of a well-worded travel piece or blog .

With changing economic times and AI thrown into the mix those web content and copywriting gigs have become more scarce. When businesses realise they can’t trust their business brand to AI there may be a turn around. But, until then travel writing has my back.

I hope you enjoy my blog. Unfortunately (or fortunately) if you spend time in my company you may also end up in my stories. I will always do my best to represent you in the shiniest way possible 🙂

What’s the skinny?

  • I will provide links and hints at the end of each blog.
  • The links I have provided are not sponsored, nor am I affiliated with any of the businesses I speak of (unless I say I am)
  • If you want me to write something for you, hit me up – this is my Lisa Ikin Writer hat.
  • I can write anything – web content, social media, blogs, emails…
  • Thanks for reading – you can subscribe and make comments 🙂

All in Day #8 Numbats & Egg Sandwiches

Numbat stalking in the Dryandra Woodland National Park in the Western Australian Wheatbelt

April 2023

Is there anything more delicious than a service station egg sandwich?  The white bread fresh and sinfully soft with egg mixed through with mayonnaise, so creamy and so right.  Pop the packet and reach for the sandwich with one hand while guiding the car with the other.

Damn you, egg sandwich, I missed the turn.  Glance in the rearview mirror and slow down to savour the eggy goodness of a service station sandwich. Then back on track covered in crumbs.

I am on my way to the WA Wheatbelt for a couple of nights of numbat spotting and woyley watching with my friend Elaine.  Numbats are diurnal so  it will be numbats by day and woylies through the night.

Arrive at camp and brush off the crumbs before making my home for the next two days.  Spend the afternoon chatting and relaxing – the sun is shining.

Burn-off smoke hangs low and obscures the sun turning it red – the same red as the breast of the Scarlett-capped robin I sighted earlier.  The robin had flitted into view tantalisingly close but not close enough to get with my big lens.

Ash falls like snowflakes onto our tents and rests on our sleeves before moving onto the next surface.  The burn-off season is here.  Ravens cry far off, and parrots squabble in the trees behind. The air is thick, so thick it tickles your throat.  Still no numbats and no sign of echidnas. Do they really exist in WA?

A generator bursts into life, cutting through the silence like a message from home.  Lawnmowers on a Sunday afternoon?

Day Two

Numbat safari – driving at snail’s pace, eyes scanning the bush on either side of the gravel road.  Foot hovering over the brake pedal.  Not sure what I am looking for, but I will know it when I see it. “There’s one!” I press the brake and glide to a halt.  5 km/hour, hardly the stuff of screeching halts.

I fumble for my camera – lens cap off, turn on the camera.  Numbat, small, striped and oh so delicate.  I was expecting them to be bigger, but there it is, 20cm in length, mouth filled with leaf litter.  She stops on top of a fallen log and looks around before scampering into the bush.  My only photo shows a whisp of tail disappearing from view.

The second numbat and I am ready.  Camera is on, lens cap is off and my finger is ready to focus and shoot. I capture her twice. Again, this one has leaves stuffed into her mouth and she poses for the camera and turns tail, stopping a short way away for a second shot, perfect camouflage.

Satisfied we complete the remaining 10 km of the 23km circuit slowly but not as slowly as the first half.

Back at camp, hail falls as the clouds charge overhead, black and looming, carrying fresh ice and fresh wind across the treetops and over the campsite below – our temporary home with plastic for walls and foldable furniture inside. Camping lacks substance but is substantially satisfying.

Another layer of clothing to warm against the impending weather. Will my tent leak?

Campers arrive and set up their temporary homes. Click clack, ladders up to houses atop cars. Chairs released from their bags, ready to receive bodies tired from travelling.  Most people keep to themselves.

So still, now the storm has passed, and the local birds emerge to peck at the bark and retrieve grubs. Small birds, flittery and fast. Stop still while I press the shutter – click whir – got you, little one.

Camp food – always the simplest ingredients that taste the best.  Salad and roast veg – leftovers from last night’s cook-up on the coals.  Pumpkin sliced and placed on freshly warmed wraps. Cheese, pickled onion, salad and Japanese mayonnaise. A sprinkle of sea salt with pepper berry from Tasmania and a scattering of fine black pepper – Saxa.  Balsamic glaze to finish off this fine meal.  I could live on wraps (and service station sandwiches).

Still no echidna despite my scanning the land for the tell-tale round forms moving back and forth.  Waddling awkwardly on clawed feet that extend sideways from prickly, furry bodies with a strange bill not unlike a bird’s beak.  They freeze when discovered and bury their beaks into the earth not unlike a 3-year-old child hiding behind her hands “I can’t see you!” Echidna where are you?

A nocturnal tour of Barna Mia.  Red torches so as not to harm their eyes.  Small hopping marsupials, some that no longer exist in the wild, surround us.  Cheeky possums (hardly endangered) join in and feast on chopped fruit.  Families of restless children surround the animals preventing the shy Bilby from appearing.  A glimpse of her from behind, big ears and a fluffy tail – like the Easter bunny – elusive. Then gasps as travelling “stars” appeared to cross the nightsky in a row. False alarm it was only Elon Musk.

The next morning is so cold it’s hard to get out of bed.  Birds everywhere – the sudden appearance of the Rufus tree-creeper – a menacing name but they look so fluffy and sweet-natured.  Little fat feathery bodies topped with small sharp beaks and soft brown eyes.  They sit on damp logs absorbing the sun and occasionally pecking at bugs. They creep up the tree trunks just like their name suggests.

Pardalotes, Scarlett capped Robins, Djidi Djidis, Wattle birds and Shelduck swoop through camp posing left right and behind – cheeky glances over their shoulders.

Packing up under the threat of a looming shower. Neatly folded chairs, tables and tents slide into spaces and bags not made for the return of their occupants.   Doors slam and hold everything in for the trip home.  Fire extinguished to prevent the spread and firewood abandoned for the next inhabitants.

A fulfilling two days.  Now, where is the closest service station?

A version of this post has been published on the We Are Explorers website.

What’s the skinny?

  • Egg sandwiches are best when made with soft white bread and lots of mayonaise (imho)
  • Dryandra Woodlands National Park is 175 km (two hours + 10 minutes) from Perth.
  • The camping is a first come first served basis. No booking
  • There are two main camp grounds – Congelin and Gnarla Mia
  • Take everything you need including water – no potable water is available at campsites
  • Lions Dryandra Woodlands Village is an ex-forest department settlement for logging families. Cabins and dorm style accomodation can be booked online.
  • Numbats are diurnal – they come out during the day.
  • Barna Mia Nocturnal Nocturnal Wildlife Experience is well worth a visit. Bookings before you leave Perth recommended.
  • Mobile coverage is hit and miss – download maps before you leave Perth.
  • The nearest town is Narrogin – 40 km away
  • The wilman Noongar people are the original inhabitants of this land.