Category: all in a day

All in a day #3 Hobart, Tasmania

Part 3 of “All in a day” takes me and two good friends to see the highs and more highs of Hobart town!

Hobart – the highs and the higher

January 2023

Travel companions: three enthusiastic Australians from the west

Our first morning in Hobart, Tasmania started like most days during our Tassie travels. Coffee and breakfast were on the agenda. We arrived in Hobart the previous day – all of us had met at MoMA (Museum of Modern Art) and ended our day with drinks at the Shamrock before sending Elaine on her way to help prepare for a wedding.

The previous morning, Leanne had enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the café down the road from our digs, Straight up. A vegetarian café with a delightful selection of vegetarian and vegan options and great coffee.

We were heading up the mountain that looms over Hobart town, kunanyi (Mt Wellington), that morning, so we headed to Straight Up for breakfast which was incredible. Some takeaway donuts were purchased for snacks should we get hungry during our mountain adventure!

 Kunanyi and its foothills are the traditional lands of the Muwinina people. It is situated on an 18,011-ha reserve on the doorstep of nipaluna, lutruwita. The mountain is 1270m high and features some fantastic dolerite rock formations and a range of alpine vegetation. Kunanyi has a range of walks and hikes suited to climbers of all experience levels. The truly fit (or truly crazy) cycle to the top and enjoy a downhill run.

We drove our car up. The mountain is very close to Hobart city centre, and it took us about 45 minutes to reach the top. We were treated with a clear view and completely still conditions. The last time I had summited Wellington, I was making snow angels, and it was the middle of winter. The locals say it is a mountain of many moods.

The infamous Tasman Bridge from the mountain

We took advantage of the ideal conditions, explored the boardwalks, and ventured part-way down the zig-zag trail to get some photos. Tourists in their droves took selfies and group photos from every vantage point. The quiet side of the mountain where the Zig Zag trail starts was the most peaceful part.

Up the mountain – Kunanyi

Photos snapped and views admired; we decided that a swim was in order (as you do when in Tassie and the temperature is over 23 degrees). We chose the shores of Sandy Bay under the shadow of Wrest Point Casino, Australia’s first casino.   Sandy Bay is a well-to-do suburb in Hobart, not far from the city centre, with beautiful beaches on the banks of the Derwent River.

Hardly the spot for nasty rips or dumpers but it was nice to know we were safe!

The surf lifesavers were set up on the beach, and the sun was shining, so we changed and plunged into the cool waters of the bay. Nice once you were in! The water was clear, and the bottom sandy like its namesake.

We devoured the delicious donuts from Straight Up. They were amazing, filled with chocolate, jam, and custard, and coated in sugar. Then, sand and sugar-coated, we showered in the freshwater showers, got dressed, and went to find a supermarket for our supplies back at the hostel were running low.

It’s a good time to talk about our digs. We decided to stay at the Pickled Frog, a backpackers in Liverpool Street. Leanne had booked the deluxe apartment, “Frog Apartment,” with her own kitchen, bathroom, and a chandelier! Wendy and I went for the shared room with the general hoi polloi. I am no stranger to backpacker accommodation, so I expected lots of young people and possible loud noise, which is pretty much what it was. However, it was okay for a few days and had us situated in the middle of Hobart, close to the restaurants and a walk from Salamanca Place.

Sleep was broken with comings and goings all hours of the night and day and alarms going off super early for those who lived and worked in Hobart. However, it was reasonably priced, and the people running the hostel were super friendly and helpful. I will also say, I am no stranger to broken sleep and noisy nights being a frequenter of music festivals – but maybe my youth hostel days are over?

We returned to the hostel for a rest before the evening plans for eating oysters and taking in the docks commenced. The previous night had been spent at a delicious Greek Restaurant, Mezethes Greek Taverna, in Salamanca Place. The staff really went out of their way to make us comfortable and welcome. The food was deluxe, and we started with a small portion of oysters.

So we decided that more oysters were in order – Mures on the docks was my choice for a seafood feast. The multi-award-winning Mures is a Tasmanian institution. The Mures have served quality fish for over 45 years from various locations around Hobart.  

The seafood did not disappoint. We washed down fresh oysters with Tasmanian beer and feasted on a shared seafood basket. The downstairs part of Mures, where we dined, is very casual, and the food is more suited to families and big gatherings. Whereas upstairs, the posh part of Mures serves seafood but in a more refined manner.    We finished our massive meal with huge scoops of ice cream from the ice creamery inside the restaurant.

With hunger sated (or over-sated), we started our stroll back to the hostel, only to discover a shindig in progress in the local park. An Irish-style folk band had the crowd dancing and clapping – Craicpot was their name, and Irish jigs were their game. After eating and drinking so much, a wee dance was just what we needed, so we stayed and jigged and clapped until the band finished their set.

The park was crowded with locals and visitors eating food from food trucks and enjoying a family picnic on the lawn. It was the perfect ending to a day with us up mountains, swimming in the waters, and eating ourselves silly. Finally, we headed for bed (and hopefully sleep!) to ready ourselves for a visit to Salamanca Markets in the morning. Goodnight Hobart!

What’s the skinny?

  • Hobart is the capital city of Tasmania
  • Hobart is a port City with a rich maritime history.
  • Salamanca Market is held every Saturday morning on the docks – well worth a visit.
  • Mures Seafood are stalwarts of the Hobart restaurant scene – fish, chips and oysters washed down with a cold beer is a must! Or you can go fancy and dine in the upper deck section (same fish but fancier)
  • Mt Wellington/ kunanyi looms over Hobart (1270 m) and is worth a visit any time of the year. Snow in winter if the road is open, and amazing vistas in Summer.
  • The Tasman Bridge is a magnificent bridge – cross it at least once!
  • MoMA is a must – you can catch a ferry across from the docks or drive and Park. David Walsh’s collection is ever changing and will have you questioning everything.

All in a day # 2 Myrtle Bank to Ansons Bay, Tasmania

Week 2 – All in a day 2023 – a roadtrip to the east coast of Tasmania

Tassie Roadtrip – Northeast to Ansons Bay January 2023

Travel companions: two enthusiastic travellers from the West

With Mt Barrow looming, we left Myrtle Bank in the Northeast of Tasmania/lutruwita for the East Coast – Tasmania’s Bay of Fires.  A convoy of two. Three adventurous women from Western Australia!

Ansons Bay, remote paradise (as the entrance sign declares) is on the Northeast coast of Tasmania.  The Bay of Fires, situated on the land of the Palawa people, was described as such by the early explorers when they arrived on Tasmania’s shores to see fires burning.  The eye-catching orange lichen that covers the coastal rocks in this part of the world contrasts directly with the wild blue seas and green coastal scrub.

Eddystone Point Lighthouse/lutruwita is the closest sentinel that keeps ships from the treacherous rocks of the area.  The lighthouse is just inside Mt. William National Park and is accessible by a gravel road.

Our first stop was Scottsdale – around 40 kilometres from Myrtle Bank.  Scottsdale is the small town where I went to high school, spent weekends with my best mate, and got up to all sorts of mischief—being an “out of towner,” I more often than not spent entire weekends in Scottsdale.

A stop in Scottsdale always entails a curly pasty at the Scottsdale Bakery, a browse in the op shops, and shopping for stores at Woollies. So, our op shop haul packed in the back, ice in the esky, food shopping done, and wine and beer purchased, we set off towards Derby, the mountain bike capital of Tasmania.

Derby was an ex-tin mining town with no future and cheap real estate before it became the darling of the Mountain Bike scene.  Tasmania now boasts world-class mountain bike tracks, and people come from all over the world to travel the trails.  It was here we used to go in the 80s to watch or compete in the Derby River derby – homemade craft set sail in the freezing waters over a weekend where Derby came to life for a moment only to go back into hibernation for the remaining 360 days of the year.

We stopped here for firewood and to call the Tasmanian Fire Department to get permission to light a fire on the block.  The town of Derby was buzzing with bikes and people.  A block in Derby that could be bought for next to nothing a decade or more ago now sells for six figures.

Gladstone, the last petrol station/shop/hotel before Ansons, was advertising a music festival that looked like it was heavy metal inclined for the coming Saturday night.  A mutual agreement to bypass this particular musical offering was made without any discussion required.

 The drive from Gladstone to Ansons Bay is via a gravel road and passes through some lush farming country where fresh-cut hay assaults the senses.  The occasional copse of bush punctuates the trip.  We had our eyes peeled for wombats and echidnas and were sad to observe roadkill that included wombats and Tasmanian Devils. 

After around 30 minutes, we crested the hill and entered Ansons Bay.  The view of the inlet and ocean beyond always takes my breath away.  The inlet on this day was dark blue, and the ocean aqua – remote paradise indeed!

My block is a bush block sitting on the hill overlooking the bay, a mere 100 metres from the bay.  Once the gate had been wrestled with, and we had given the caravan and shed annex a quick once over with the broom, we unpacked food, clothing, knitting, notebooks, novels, cameras, and games.

The beds could wait; it was time to go and check out the bay, where the local fishermen, pelicans, and dogs greeted us like long-lost friends. The water felt warm and was relatively clear, and the locals were curious.

“Where you from?”It seems everyone has a link to Western Australia, knows someone, or has lived there at some stage.

Our stroll took us past shacks and caravans of varying sizes – little, it seemed, had changed since my visit eight months earlier. Ansons Bay is like the holiday destination that time forgot.  Electricity is available, but some properties, including mine, are not hooked to the grid.  There is no petrol station, no shop and very little mobile coverage.  The telephone tower was placed tantalisingly close but not close enough.

The locals have signposted an area just before you head down the hill into the town named “connection cove,” where you can pull in to answer emails and messages and update your socials.  So close yet so far, and dare I say it – One Job!

We were feeling a bit warm, so we decided a swim was in order, and the nearby Policeman’s point was beckoning.  The road out to Policeman’s Point is gravel and takes you to the inlet, where the brackish waters of the bay meet the pounding waves of the Tasman Sea.  The tide was on its way out when we arrived at the popular camping site, exposing the vast sand flats, a popular fishing spot for campers and locals alike.

We immersed ourselves in the clear blue water, dodging blue bottles and rushing seaweed.  The water was deliciously cooling without being too cold. It massaged our skin and washed away a week of business and travel.  All that fresh air and salt water excited our senses, and suddenly all we could think of was nibbles and drinks.  So we started back for camp only to discover Elaine had lost her phone.  A trip back to the beach and the phone was right where she had dropped it!

The sun was still beating down at 5:00 pm, so we found some shade and set ourselves up with beers in hand and a tray full of delicious morsels. Never had anything tasted so good.

Even though it is nowhere near cool enough for a fire, we thought we should light one as we had permission to do so.  The fire crackled at a distance, and our senses were loaded with everything that is good and fine in a remote paradise.

A day to remember and one of many to come.

What’s the skinny?

  • Ansons Bay is situated on the “remote beaches” region of Tasmania in the North East.
  • If travelling from Launceston allow a good two hours and a couple of stops – 165 km.
  • One of those stops has to be the Scottsdale Bakery for curly pasties and scones. Supermarket shopping can also be done here.
  • Derby (Mountain bike capital of Tassie) is worth a stop to soak up the mountain biking vibe. The Blue Derby Mountain Bike Trail is world class.
  • Gladstone is the last petrol/booze stop before Ansons Bay where this are no shops and the Gladstone Hotel does a super counter meal.
  • Camping is only available in the designated camping area of Policeman’s Point (15 minutes drive from Ansons Bay) or further towards St Helens.
  • Check with the Fire Department before lighting fires.
  • Mt William National Park is accessible from Ansons Bay.
  • When driving at night slow down so as not to run over any wildlife.
  • Mobile coverage is sketchy – download any maps you might need.
  • You can use the telephone box situated next to the fire station to make free calls within Australia.

All in a day # 1 Fremantle Western Australia

Wondering what to do with your day? A quick trip down the Derbarl Yerrigan (Swan River) to the port of Fremantle is a fine thing to do on a Summer’s day.

Perth to Fremantle – Boats, trains and cocktails

January 2023

One sunny Saturday in January, we were home with no plans. It was one of those perfect Perth summer days – not too hot with the promise of a breeze. So an afternoon in Fremantle was just what the doctor ordered (see what I did there). If you are not from Perth, you may not know that the sea breeze is fondly known as the Fremantle Doctor.

The train is usually my transport of choice when heading to the port city as parking can be a nightmare, and what’s not to love about riding the train along the coast? However, today we decided to do as the tourists do and jump on the Derbarl Yerrigan (Swan River) for a boat ride. I quickly checked online and discovered a Captain Cook cruise departing from Elizabeth Quay at 2:15 pm. $43 for a one-way trip – probably not something I would do every day. So without overthinking it, I booked!

Elizabeth Quay
Captain Cook Cruises

We threw on some hats, grabbed the camera, and caught a bus to Elizabeth Quay. The boat was ready to board when we got there, so we headed for the top deck. The bar was open, and beer was on the menu, so we ordered a beer and sat back to enjoy the trip of just over an hour. There was a commentary of course, which is not always to my liking – but this was OK. The skipper pointed out landmarks and told us about some of the houses we passed.

Swan Brewery
Perth City

We arrived in Fremantle Harbour, where we caught sight of frolicking dolphins and could see the bustling Gage Roads Brewery, now situated on the wharf in one of the old passenger terminals. We decided to go and check out the brewery first. The brewery was impressive, with views of the harbour and enough seating configurations to suit groups of all sizes. A playground at one end with a real boat and an old four-wheel drive for the kids to climb on.

Freo Giraffes
Maritime Museum
Gage Roads Brewery
Gage Roads Brewery
This might be the best bar view in Perth!

Next stop was the Fremantle Markets – I must admit I last went there some time ago, and it feels a bit tired. Even though it was bustling, it didn’t have the same vibe as the old days when permanent markets like Fremantle were king (or queen). I enjoy the outdoors of a farmers market these days. We did a quick circuit, breathed in the flavoured coffee smell that always assaults the senses when you enter the market and decided to head back to the other end of town. We meandered and stopped to check out op shops and bookshops. Fremantle wins hands down when it comes to secondhand books and killer op shops.

Op Shop
Vintage clothing

The next stop was the Jungle Bird, where the cocktails were flowing – so when in a rum bar… We stopped for a cocktail and soaked up the atmosphere before deciding that we should think about getting on the train for home.

The Jungle Bird
Rum bar

The train was in the station, so we boarded and sat back to enjoy the coastal view. By this stage, we were starting to feel a bit hungry, so we decided to get off the train in West Leederville and duck into Besk for some share plates and one last drink. The food was delicious and really hit the spot – we over ordered, of course, and had to abandon the basket of french fries!

Besk Bar – West Leederville

We could have gotten back on the train and continued our journey as we started by returning home on the bus. But with full stomachs and all that fresh sea air, we were happy to jump into an Uber for the trip home.

We arrived home as the sun set and agreed that our adventure had met all expectations considering we had none about 30 minutes before we had set off.

What’s the skinny?

  • Fremantle is around 30 minutes from Perth City.
  • The train departs every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes on weekends and at other times.
  • Fremantle is a port city with a rich maritime history.
  • Gage Roads Brewery is worth a visit, if not for a beer, just for a gander.
  • Its best to catch a train (or ferry) because parking can be tight.
  • Captain Cook Cruises depart from Barrack Street Jetty in the city & arrive at B Shed in Fremantle.
  • Give yourself a day to meander.
  • Go and visit the Maritime Museum – there are two.

Fairbridge Festival 2021 – Rocking out with the kids.

2021 saw the comeback of the music Festival following a year of uncertainty. Fairbridge Festival 2021 – Rocking out with the kids.

Every event that goes ahead these days is a triumph. I am feeling incredibly lucky to have attended my second music festival in as many months. Once again, I attended as a volunteer and found the festival very rewarding and loads of fun.

Fairbridge Festival is an institution in Western Australia. In 1992, two committee members of the WA Folk Federation, Max Klubal and Sally Grice, decided to investigate the possibility of a folk festival on the Fairbridge site. In 1993, the first festival was held and the rest, they say, is history. https://www.fairbridgefestival.com.au/about/

In 2020 the festival was cancelled for the first time due to Covid19. Ticket holders were asked to hold onto their tickets and volunteers guaranteed a volunteer position the next year.

My friends and I have been attending Fairbridge Festival for over 20 years. In the early years our children grew up with Fairbridge being an annual event. Loading up children and tents in tiny cars was an art in packing. Marie Kondo would have been impressed. As they became more independent teenagers we would all converge for giant cook-ups in the mornings only to go our separate ways during the day. Showers stopped being a thing and the drive home was always a stinky, dusty experience. Now we go together, mostly without our kids. Adults now, they occasionally make an appearance. In recent years we have all started volunteering and it’s a great way to be part of the festival.

In previous years I had volunteered in the “Woodshed” with the little tikes. The Woodshed is run by Tracey Laird of Perth Kids Shed, who provides workshops for school-aged children. https://perthkidsshed.com.au/pages/about-us Fairbridge’s Woodshed is probably not the destination for you if you have issues with your hearing, your nerves, or you are hungover. 30 plus children all wielding hammers, saws and electric drills! What could possibly go wrong? Each year I worked the Woodshed I would swear I was going to “try something different, next time”. Each year, I would forget the pain and the ringing ears and once again put my hand up for the job. I liken it to childbirth, you must forget the pain over 12 months.

Following the appropriate amount of time required to forget pain I was prepared to assault my ears and senses in 2021. Two years had gone by, which meant I was positively waxing lyrical about “working with the little ones to unlock their creative woodworking potential.” So you can imagine my disappointment when I was informed that the Woodshed would not be running in 2021. I was given the job of “Stage Manager” on the Kaleidoscope Children’s Stage. Two shifts of listening to children’s music and children’s entertainers. A pretty cruisy gig.

The entertainers were all brilliant and I found myself belly-laughing on more than one occasion. The Saturday night kids disco was the place to be. The dance floor was bouncing, and not just with children. Adults YMCA’d, Moved it Moved it and generally had a great time. When Sam the DJ dropped Primal Scream’s Loaded, parents flocked to the dance floor, not a child in sight! It it hadn’t been 7:00 pm and 2021, AND I wasn’t stone cold sober I could have been back on the dance floor of my favourite 90’s club.

My job, as Stage Manager? A piece of cake. I had to make sure the artists had everything they needed, move some chairs around, and occasionally report a lost child or parent. All while looking important with a “walkie talkie” and a clipboard. I think the kids stage was the least stressful of all the Fairbridge stages.

The rest of the festival was brilliant. The acts consisted of mostly local WA artists. Highlights: Seeing my good friend, Leanne get up and perform her own song at the morning jam session in The Loft; Carla Geneve at the Backlot; and a good old Beatles singalong on the last night. It’s great to see that musicians are getting out and gigging again. Its been a tough 12 months for the performing folk. The dust storms followed by torrential rain made it a very muddy affair. But, what is a festival without a bit of mud and dust?

Post Script: When I arrived for my first shift at the kids stage I was surprised to see a Woodshed set up right next to the stage tent. I admit to feeling slightly miffed. Was it something I said/did? Following some investigation, I found out it was a last minute inclusion and the Men’s Shed were running it. From all accounts, I think they found it quite challenging. I predict that I will be back in the Woodshed next year.

To read about volunteering at Nannup Festival – Click here https://www.lisabenjess.org/nannup-music-festival-2021-a-volunteers-view/

How to get the best out of a music festival. Volunteering at Nannup Music Festival 2021

Nannup Music Festival, the little festival with a big heart!

There’s an old military saying “never volunteer for anything,” but that is certainly not my adage.WA has truly been one of the lucky states in Australia for the  12 months since Covid19 first impacted our country. In Western Australia, following the initial lock down of April 2020, we enjoyed many days of Covid free living, apart from the recent 5 day lock down. A stark contrast to our friends in Victoria and NSW.     

I attended Nannup Music Festival this year as a volunteer. I drove the shuttle bus a 3km round trip from camp site to town , while  my friends worked the bar, (wo)manned the gate and MC’d the stages. The fact that we could attend a music festival at all was not lost on any of  us.

Sunset at the Nannup Music Festival

Nannup Music Festival is a  three day festival set in the Western Australian bush, situated in the quaint town of Nannup which is 3.5 hours south of Perth.  The festival usually attracts artists from the national and international stage and sells around 4000 tickets.  2021 saw crowd numbers limited in venues,  due to Covid19 restrictions,  and the talent was very much a Western Australian affair with some artists travelling interstate from Darwin and Queensland.  

Nannup Music Festival 2021 will forever be etched on our minds as “the year of no beer”.  Over the many years I have been attending music festivals with my friends,  there is usually a single event or a series of events that define that year.  There was “the great flood” of Fairbridge Music Festival in 2008 when torrential rain flattened our tents and cut off power to the main stage.  Particularly memorable because one of  our children called 000 as they were caught in their tent when the rain started and did not know what to do.  The first we knew of their panicked call for help was a police car turning up and 2 puzzled constables wading through mud, searching for “the scene of the crime”.

There was “the big wind” of 2017, also at Fairbridge,  which ripped tents and shelters out of the ground and generally wreaked havoc.    A foray into the earnest world of folk music at Nanga Music Festival is one we always remember and laugh about, and we will never forget sleepless nights at Wave Rock Weekender , when we camped beside the soundscape, which ran all night. I have attended many festivals in my time but this is the first one I have known to run out of beer. 

  I had first hand information on Saturday afternoon that some types of  beer had already run out and there was only a small selection of other beverages available.  By Sunday lunchtime the alcohol situation was pretty dire despite more supplies arriving.  Sunday night I was driving the shuttle bus from 8:00 pm to 11:00 pm and word on the street was “the bars have all run out of alcohol!”  Following what had been a fairly raucous Saturday night of ferrying inebriated patrons to and from the camp ground, Sunday was a fairly sober affair!

Nannup Music Festival is an artists festival and it can only run with the help of volunteers.  I only received my volunteer rosters 2 days before the beginning of the festival so I did not get a lot of choice about the timing of those shifts. Two late nights shifts meant I missed all the evening performances and had the added joy of dealing with drunk passengers with no extra support. So the lack of alcohol on Sunday night actually made my life easier!

It’s these moments that I will remember with a smile: The group of 20 somethings who sang a canon of “The Wheels on the Bus” with ALL the verses; the inebriated guy who sat in the front seat and got into a discussion with me about teaching and then asked if he could do another loop to continue the chat; the young girl who got on the empty bus alone, and when I asked her if she was having a good festival, she burst into tears and told me she had just broken up with her boyfriend and he had left her alone with no transport home; the group of lovely young women on a “hen’s” weekend who were constantly ferrying members of their group back to the campsite because they had too much to drink; the countless young men who thought they could pull the wool over my eyes and pretend there was a seat at the very back of the bus when there wasn’t; and the laughter when I told the whole bus I was a school teacher and that I wasn’t going to take any shit.

Despite the lack of alcohol, the crowd kept dancing and the bands kept playing. The world did not stop turning and I think I could safely say that everyone who attended this years festival would have only good things to say.  It’s just a shame that this glitch might mean the difference between a festival that breaks even and one that doesn’t.

Musical highlights for me: Ruby Gilbert @ the Secret Garden on Saturday morning; Ben Evolent @ the Nannup Hotel on Sunday afternoon; Alter Boy @ Tigerville ; Gina williams & Guy Ghouse also @ The Secret Garden; and John Bennett Trio @ The Amphitheater on Sunday night.

My next volunteer gig is Fairbridge Festival 9th – 11th of April, 2021 in Pinjarra, where I can be found in the Woodshed helping kids hammer nails into wood and use electric drills. What could possibly go wrong?

Side Note: The 2021 Fairbridge Festival ended up being the last one to be held at Fairbridge Village. The festival organisers are still looking for an alternative venue 😦

Nannup Music Festival 2021
Nannup Music Festival 2021

Think you might want to volunteer? Most festivals require that you do 3 x 3 hour shifts over the weekend. If you can get there early and have some extra time you can get your shifts out of the way in the set up and take down. Fancy a bar gig? Get your RSA online. Like working with kids? Apply for your Working with Children Check. Bus driving ? An F Extension on your driver’s licence is all it takes! You get to be part of the fun and enjoy all the music, all while feeling like you are doing something good.

If you would like to read about volunteering at another great WA festival. Fairbridge Festival is a must for volunteers and music lovers alike. https://www.lisabenjess.org/fairbridge-festival-2021-rocking-out-with-the-kids/